Getting Credit Cards

[flatbelly]

Getting Credit Cards
Of all the data sought by hackers, credit card databases are the highest priority. This is because they are the easiest to use.
There are nine basic methods to obtain credit card numbers
Phishing
Buy
Trade
Generate
Extrapolate
Intrusions
identify theft
social engineering
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Newbie Warning
If you are new to credit cards do not even think of doing anything here until you have more experience
It may seem easy (and it is), but you must have certain mindset.
The key to success, at anything in life, is knowledge and the ability to apply your knowledge.
Anything done in person takes a little more than that. It takes presentation. It takes charisma. It takes charm.
If you’re a pimply 16-year-old wearing cut offs and a sleeveless shirt, do you honestly think that someone will believe you can afford a $3000 computer system?
It’s possible, if you know how to act and what to say. As a newbie you know nothing about the life, how “carding” works, how cards work, etc. Learn everything you possibly can before you step out into the real world, and then start small.
How to start
You must have some money saved up in order to start in this business
Card encoder – Get an MSR206. It is the standard when it comes to encoders. I have heard that the AMC-722 works, but it will not last as long and will break
Laptop – You may not need this to get started, but you’ll find out quickly that it will save a lot of time. If you don’t have a laptop you will need to go home every time a card dies. I suggest the smallest, lightest laptop possible. Cost: $500-$2000, cardable
Serial to USB Adaptor – Most encoders are serial based (including the MSR206), and most small laptops don’t have serial ports. Get a USB adaptor to make it easier on yourself. Cost: $10-$25, cardable.
Power Inverter – You’ll want to power your encoder in your car, and for that you’ll need a power inverter. Sure, the MSR206 is 12v and you could make an adaptor, but where are you going to find the strange connector it uses? You’ll probably use the power adaptor for other things anyway. For an encoder or laptop a small one will do, say 75-100 watts. Cost: $25-$55, cardable
Credit Card to encode onto – You’ll need something to put those dumps on, and it’s not a blank white card. You’ll need to get a card from somewhere
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Dumps
Fake ID
Kinds of dumps
So, what kind of dump should you use? It all depends on what you will be buying. If you plan on buying a lot of lower priced things (less than $500), go with Classic
They are the cheapest, but have the lowest limits. You can eat through a list of classic cards very quickly. If you plan on making larger purchases go with gold, platinum, or signature. I stick to Visa/Mastercard. Many stores require the CVN of an Amex card (number printed on front), and it will look strange when the computer says you used an Amex and you’re holding a Visa/Mastercard
Track 2 or 1 and 2?
Again, this depends on where you will be using it. Most places use both tracks
2. Remember, stores are always updating their systems so this could change at any time. I suggest always using both, although sometimes you can get very good deals on dumps with only track 2.
I’m ready, now what?
So you have everything you need, or do you? How about software for your encoder? I use MSR206 program
Now, before you encode your card you have to change the name. Put the name on it from your fake ID.
Prepare your mind
You ARE the person on your ID. This is YOUR credit card. You are buying something you saved for. It is YOUR money you are spending. These are things you should be thinking. The more you believe this the easier it will be. If anyone ever questions you react like they are crazy
What do you mean? This is my card! Do you want to see my ID? I’ve been saving a long time for this! Fine, I’ll spend my money at another store!
Always think about any possible situation. You will have cards declined frequently. I like to make the nice person at the register think it may be declined before I even use it. I’ll say something like “Ohhh, I didn’t think it was that much. I hope I have enough left to buy it!” They will expect it to be declined and think nothing of it if it is. If it goes through they will smile and laugh. Sometimes I won’t say anything beforehand. If it gets declined I’ll make up some excuse like “I must be over my daily limit” or “My payment must not have gone through.”
Always think about what to say before you have to say it.
Another thing to remember: DON’T PANIC! DON’T PANIC! DON’T PANIC! Even when things seem to be going wrong keep your cool. Cashiers always think there is something wrong with the system, or that there is a problem with the bank, etc. As long as the card you have encoded the dump onto isn’t stolen you won’t have any problems. Even when the computer tells them to pick the card up cashiers never do it. Just say you’ll take the card and call the bank and work it out
They will hand it right back to you
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